End of an era?

Mumbai is a vertical city. It reaches the heights of intolerance, impatience, gonnda-giri, bonhomie, floods and every possible event that you might imagine. To such a city of extremes, the presence of the double decker on its roads is a fitting tribute. The double decker represents an extreme of bus travel- both good and bad depending on the nature of the experience that you’ve had. My first sight of a double decker was that of the long necked one, which looked a bit like a crane lying flat on its belly. The driver was well cut off from the rest of the bus and seemed to enjoy supreme powers. Those didn’t last long I presume. The versions that are currently on draw the driver close in and hold the whole package tight. The driver is still cut off from the passenger compartment by a grill that makes one feel like prisoners sometimes.
The joy of the double decker is obviously at the top. The bottom layer can almost be treated as a must have for holding the top up that’s all. The exhilaration began right at the start when the double decker rolled in. I had a double decker bus starting from where I lived, so had the good fortune of witnessing empty BEST buses first thing in the morning. Believe me it was a good omen in an otherwise packed city. The double decker tested your agility with the first step. The ground clearance of the footboard was not mean and kids used to be required to be hauled up and elders and women would need help too. The entrance (and the exit) was like a gaping hole which led to nowhere. It had support bars on either side, that’s all. Anybody getting in from somewhere in between the two extremes had nothing to hold onto except the next passenger.

Once you were in the bus, the next big question was about whether to take the level below or to rush above. My choice was clear but conflicts used to arise when elders were around. The top storey was a driverless one and obviously the one with the view. Prime seats were right up front, with the wind blowing into you r hair and you in the driver’s seat literally. The feeling of sitting virtually on the edge of the bus can’t be explained in words. In Mumbai where heights are at premium and the farther you are from the ground, you’re charged floor rise, this was luxury at its best. The window right up front also accorded u the ability to Lord over traffic in general and pass comments at all n sundry…..the relevance of this at an age when testosterone is high and marks are at a low can’t be overstated. During monsoons, this seat would be preferred by young dudes n duddettes who wanted the spray in their faces. Was a different thing that with the BEST bus roof quality you could have a spray sitting anywhere during monsoon.

The floor below the one above, the one where the condemned and the unlucky ones traveled was a nightmare of sorts. It’s a level that’s lower than single decker buses and makes u feel like you’re a prisoner being taken to the gallows, especially after you’ve experienced the upper storey. It’s less lit, more cramped, usually more crowded. It reminds me of how chawls exist at the bottom of and in and around most high rises in Mumbai.

A thin well guarded set of stairs lead from the chawls below to the apartments upstairs. These stairs are winding and it’s an art trying to negotiate them when the double decker is in full flight. During peak hours these also get inhabited by people on their way up some on their way down and a lot of others interspersed facing various directions.

The space below the stairs is at a premium though. It’s like a safe alcove that prevents u from the the jostle of those going in and out and up and down. Is like the next best piece of real estate in a BEST bus to getting a seat.

It’s a sight to behold, a double decker on a key route. During peak hours you’ll have people popping out of its windows and the footboard at the rear being tested for density of occupation and strength of purpose. Howsoever full that it might be it always seems to have room for that one more person or rather at least his toe. In a lot of ways, the story of the Double Decker is the story of Mumbai. Perpetually crowded, but somehow keeps moving. Howsoever high u might be, you’re still limited by the same limitations as the guy down below. And finally there’s always room for that one more person.

Epilogue: Read in the papers today about how double deckers will slowly be phased out. They’re giving way to the AC buses the low floor variety etc etc. Faster, lither, more fuel efficient. It’s a sign of the times. Hope I do find my double decker in a museum at least in future, if not on the roads.